Home › Fence Post Repair
Fence Post Repair
Quick answer: A leaning or rotted fence post can be fixed by bracing and re-setting it, adding a steel repair spike or mender driven beside it, bolting a short concrete or steel stub to the old post, or replacing the post entirely. The right fix depends on whether the post is rotted, loose in its footing, or heaved by frost.
Diagnose first
Before buying a repair kit, find out why the post failed. Push the fence gently and watch the base.
- Post snapped or soft at ground level: rot. Wood is weakest where soil, air and water meet.
- Post rocks but wood is sound: footing too shallow, too narrow, or soil washed out.
- Post lifted higher than neighbours: frost heave, common in clay and cold climates.
- Whole section leaning: several posts or a gate pulling the line.
- Concrete footing cracked or loose: footing failure.
Probe the wood with a screwdriver at and just below grade. If it sinks in easily, the post is rotted.
Repair options
| Method | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Brace and re-tamp | Loose post, sound wood | Dig around, re-tamp gravel or add concrete, brace until set |
| Steel repair spike / mender | Rotted base, sound above | Driven next to post and bolted; quick |
| Concrete repair spur | Rotted base | Concrete stub set beside post, bolted on |
| Replace post | Severe rot or heave | Most durable; more work |
| Upgrade to steel post with brackets | Repeated failures | Changes fence look slightly |
Replacing a post step by step
- Request utility locates if digging new ground; see permits and property lines.
- Support the fence: clamp temporary braces to rails on both sides.
- Detach rails or panels from the failed post.
- Remove the old post and footing. A post puller or a lever with a chain helps; old concrete may need breaking up.
- Dig to the required depth and width; see how deep fence posts.
- Set a ground-contact rated post, plumb it in two directions and brace.
- Backfill with concrete or compacted gravel; slope the top to shed water.
- After curing per product directions, reattach rails and remove braces.
Gate posts
Gate posts carry the most stress. If a gate post leans, the gate will drag or fail to latch. Upsizing the post (for example 4x4 to 6x6), digging deeper and adding an anti-sag kit to the gate are common fixes.
Preventing future failures
- Keep soil and mulch away from the post base
- Set the top of concrete above grade and slope it
- Use gravel at the base for drainage
- Use ground-contact rated or naturally rot-resistant wood
- Re-seal cut post tops or add caps
- Consider steel posts in problem areas
Worked example
Figures below are illustrative examples (2026-10-29), not quotes or guarantees.
Assumptions: three posts rotted at grade on a 15-year-old fence. Option A, steel menders: three kits at $40 each (invented), two hours of work, total $120. Option B, replace posts: three 8 ft posts at $25, six bags of concrete at $8, a post puller rental of $40, about eight hours: $163 plus time. Option C, hire: a contractor quotes $175 per post replaced, $525 total. Menders are quicker; replacement lasts longer; hiring saves the labour.
Frost heave repairs
Heaved posts can sometimes be pushed or driven back down when ground thaws, but they tend to heave again unless the cause is addressed. Solutions include deeper footings below frost, bell-shaped bottoms, smooth-sided forms (sonotubes) and improving drainage. Ask local installers what works in your soil.
Tools for repair
A post puller, digging bar, shovel, level, clamps, braces and a cordless drill cover most jobs. Rent heavy items. See fence tools.
When the whole fence is due
If many posts are rotting at once, the fence may be near the end of its life, since the other posts likely share the same conditions. Weigh repairs against replacement using fence cost per foot and the fence calculator.
Repairing rails and pickets
Not every lean is a post problem. A rail that has split at the bracket or pulled its fasteners lets a section sag even if posts are solid. Sister a new piece of lumber alongside a cracked rail, or replace the rail and reattach with exterior-rated screws or metal rail brackets. Loose pickets can be re-fastened with longer exterior screws into sound wood; replace split or rotted pickets with matching boards. If you are replacing many pickets, stain new boards to blend with older ones.
Repair costs vs replacement costs
Small repairs are cheap in materials; the real cost is time. If more than a third of posts need work, or the fence has reached an age where boards are splitting and rails are soft, put the money toward a new fence instead. Use the fence cost calculator to price replacement and compare it with your repair list.
Working near neighbours
If the post is on a shared fence, tell your neighbour before you start, especially if you need to step onto their side or detach panels. Agree on who pays for what in writing if the work is shared.
Preventing future rot
When you set a replacement post, slope the top of concrete or soil away from the post so water runs off, keep mulch and soil off the wood above grade, and cap post tops. Use lumber rated for ground contact. Small habits add years to the post's life and save the next repair.
When repair is urgent
Leaning sections near pools, play areas or sidewalks should be supported or removed quickly to avoid injury.
FAQ
Can I fix a post without removing the fence?
Often yes with menders or braces; full replacement usually needs rails detached.
How long should repaired posts last?
Depends on method, soil and material; replacement with proper drainage lasts longest.
Are repair spikes strong enough for gates?
Often not; gate posts usually need full replacement or upsizing.
How much concrete for a new post?
Use the fence concrete calculator.
Try the calculator · Back to FAQ & guides